Where the Western Rivers Flow – Bill Bowtell

The western river systems of inland Queensland and NSW have always held a vivid fascination for me; one that almost verges on the point of, romance.  As a point of example: the downstairs lounge room of our house is dominated by a print of a painting by the landscape artist Rob Wellington.  It is titled, “Fishing with Grandad”; a wonderful piece of work depicting an elderly gentleman and a young lad sitting on the bank of a western river (in this particular case, the Darling River) angling for the iconic Murray Cod, but satisfied with Yellowbelly, each other’s company and the ambience offered by the tall, majestic, red river gums lining the steep banks, for which the Darling River is well noted.

It is a classic scene which typifies what fishing these western waterways is all about.  Relaxation and expectation!

The extended family of my step-grandfather, Jim (King) Armstrong, were all people from the western drainage systems – the waterways of the Murray/Darling and of the Lake Eyre. They included shearers, drovers, ringers, cooks, roust-abouts, fencers and even horse trainers and station managers.  Their tales of cod and yellowbelly (aimed to counteract my Dad’s stories of bream, tailor and mulloway!) flowed as freely, as did the beer and rum when they came to, “the big smoke of Ipswich and Brisbane”, for the Winter Racing Carnival.  Their tales were of course “embellished”, but some of the old family photographs often displayed, showed that in some cases, not by much!  Of course, as a very young lad, I hung onto and believed every spoken word.  Dad would just say, “bullsh*t!” and leave it at that.

It was not until 1969, as a young cadet surveyor, that I was to get my first real taste of what these rivers west of the Great Divide (Range) had to offer.  Certainly I had been west before, but only as a young child, and then on family holidays to places such as Mungallala, Mitchell and Charleville on the Westlander rail out of Ipswich.  This time was different, I was under my own steam.  Stories of people, fish and the bush told to me as a young fella began to flood back as I rode the old McCafferty’s bus up through Cunningham’s Gap midway between Ipswich and Warwick, on the northern Granite Belt.

My posting to work with the Main Roads survey team operating in the mid-western district of Warwick was designed so that I got experience in the location of roads within the complexities of the western river systems.  Little did I know at the start, that most of this “experience” meant walking and traversing those very same rivers that were discovered and named by explorers such as: Alan Cunningham, 1827, named the Dumaresq, Macintyre, Condamine and the Gwydir rivers;  Major Thomas Mitchell, 1846, named the Balonne and Maranoa rivers.  These rivers form a major section of the north-eastern and northern catchment of the inland flowing Murray/Darling basin: in particular, the Darling River.

During 1969, and again on a return stint in 1971, I got to know rivers of this area quite well.  Work was a two-edged sword: it was time consuming, but it gave the opportunity to meet local property owners and seek out the better fishing holes.  Once the owner got to know that you were, “fair dinkum”, then he/she would give you a “fair go” by, setting a few ground rules about gates, stock watering, use of guns, and usually “no dogs”. You would then get directions to the river and even the better campsites. Do the right thing and in most cases you were given free range.

One “fair go” was on Callemondah, a sheep station located on the road between Stanthorpe and Texas.  This was “Granite Belt” country, and as such when Winter came, it came with a blast.  Even the fish felt it.

Pikes Creek is the major watercourse in the area.  It is the uppermost catchment of the Darling River and therefore holds fish species endemic to the Murray/Darling Basin, especially those that are adapted to cold, variable water temperatures: Murray Cod in this area are particularly adaptive. I spotted a big shadow in the waterhole at the old Pikes Creek crossing just below the homestead.  I had never seen a fish as big.  It just had to be a cod.

Being young and naïve I mentioned this to an old rabbit trapper working the area and who used to drop off his bunnies for pick-up just below our camp.  He seemed disinterested at the time.  The next morning he turned up at our camp with his normal “80 pairs of rabbits”, but in addition, a 50lb (22.7kg) Cod hanging from the side rack.  He had caught “my fish” on a set line using half a skinned rabbit.  He offered me the other half of the rabbit and suggested that “I go and try to catch one myself”.  Pike’s Creek has since been dammed to form Lake Glenlyon.  I’m still trying to catch my 50lb cod, near the same spot,

55 years later!!

The second “fair go” was further out west centered around a property (sheep and wheat) on black soil.  It was named “Lalaguli”.  The nearest town was a small place named Toobeah (both are still there today).  The old roust-about on Lalaguli put us onto a top spot on the Weir River, which flows just to the north of Toobeah before joining up with the Macintyre River to form the Barwon River.  The Weir River had a natural rock bar locally known as, “The Overshot”.  At each flood, or rise in the river, a deep hole would wash and form on the downstream side of the rock bar.  The yellowbelly  and eel-tailed catfish (jew) loved it.  At each flush they would build up below the rock barrier and were very easy to catch – in particular at first and last light of the day.  The preferred bait for these fish was locally caught shrimp, with frogs a close second.  These frogs were a small, brown, bullet-nosed variety that could be found under damp leaf-litter and behind bark stripped from the coolibah trees along the many lagoons and billabongs adjacent to the river.  They were hard to catch, as they could spring 3-4 metres in one leap.  There were often surprises too, under the bark and leaf litter.  Where there were frogs, there were snakes!  And big fellas!  In these more enlightened times, it is now illegal to use frogs (of any species) for bait.

Most recently I returned to this western country with my wife, Lorraine, for an extended caravanning trip throughout the upper catchment area of the Darling River.  We also included some of the waterways of the Lake Eyre basin.  We both worked out in that country in 1975 as a young married couple – me surveying, Lorraine the camp cook.  Some things don’t change!  The boys in the crew thought it a great idea as they knew that they would be well fed!

The Barcoo River rises in the ranges east of Tambo.  From here the river runs NW through the township of Blackall, swings west, then south-west to Isisford – a distance of about 240km.  There is good fishing to be had at Blackall’s Five Mile waterhole, located 8km north of the town.  It is a relatively clear water location, good for both bait and lures.

The Barcoo at Isisford is very well known for its annual 3 day fishing competition.  Held each year at the Oma Waterhole, this competition targets yellowbelly, catfish and black bream (Barcoo Grunter).  Held in Winter (July), this competition utilizes the seasonal changes which trigger these fish to come on the bite.  The Barcoo is a river of the Lake Eyre catchment.  From Isisford it flows SW for 200 odd kilometres before linking up with the Thomson River midway between Jundah and Windorah, to form the iconic and historical, Cooper Creek.  And whilst there are no Murray Cod in this system, the fishing along this stretch of river is very good, with grunter, yellowbelly and catfish, all readily available.  A good source of information is generally found at the local pubs. There are more fish caught in the “waterholes” at Stonehenge, Jundah and Windorah than in the river itself. Get in on the conversations or, start one up yourself. Make yourself known to the local property owners for access.

Other Channel Country fishing locations that provide both adventure and the opportunity to enjoy unique fishing experiences not common to the east coast, or eastern flowing rivers, fall within the Paroo Shire. These locations where access is assured are the lower Cooper Creek below Windorah, the Wilson River at Noccundra and the Bulloo River at Thargomindah. All of these rivers are declared, “Carp Free”, and as such, specific regulations apply to the use of bait, eg where it can be used, where it comes from and what it is. This information can be obtained through the local shire authority, generally at the town information centre.

The northern most rivers of the Darling River catchment are the Nive, Warrego, Langlo, Ward and Maranoa.  All of these rivers have yellowbelly, cod, catfish, spangled perch and sadly some populations of European (koi) carp.  Silver perch (macquarie perch) have also been released under a recognized stocking program by Queensland Department of Primary Industries and Fisheries, into the Warrego River between Charleville and Cunnamulla and the Balonne River at St.George.

For the travelling fisho taking on the challenges of inland river freshwater fishing, Charleville is most likely the place to start. Charleville’s location places it within a 60km radius of the major, feeder, river systems; the Nive, the Langlo, the Ward – plus several smaller creeks that join and feed the major river that flows through Charleville – the Warrego.  The significance of this is that these rivers provide multiple flows into the Warrego during times of flood.  In turn these flows provide the opportunity of continuous migration of fish which restocks the river as the flood waters drop back between the banks.  The Warrego from Charleville also has direct passageway back to the Darling River; joining up with this system just north of the NSW riverside township of Louth about 120kms south of Bourke by river.

As  most fishers would be aware when intending to fish any new area, “you can’t beat local knowledge”.  Charleville has both a fishing club and a well-stocked fishing and camping store.

“Charleville Fishing, Hunting and Camping” shop, in the main street of Charleville, is owned and operated by locals “Blue” and Sam Booth. Their shop stocks everything the western based angler needs to catch, not only fish such as Murray Cod, yellowbelly, spangled perch, silver perch and catfish, but it also offers bait supplies: worms, blue-claw yabbies and prawns, along with a broad range of lures to entice a strike. And for those, like me, who like to catch their own bait, a full range of shrimp and yabby pots along with the necessary bait.

The shop is also a gold mine of information. Blue and Sam are very active within the local fishing community and are very keen to impart their long-time knowledge to the newcomer as to,“what tackle to use, which line classes are best for specific species, how to set up your gear when using various baits, how to rig these baits and very importantly, what hooks to use for each species”. And as the waters clear, “what lures to use”. Their information will also include the best times of day to fish, the preferred weather conditions and of course, where the fish are, or have been, biting!  They run a great show and strongly support the local restocking programs undertaken in the Warrego, as well as the three fishing competitions held in the region each and every year.

The Ward River crossing is on the Quilpie road heading west out of Charleville. It is a big stretch of river and popular with the locals as a fishing hole. Blue suggested we give it a try. Early the next morning, in -1*C temperature, we were setting up on the bank of the river just downstream of the crossing. It was half an hour before sunrise.

This waterhole had all of the species -Murray cod, yellowbelly, silver perch, spangled perch, eel-tailed catfish and a population of carp. We had bait for them all and rigs to suit. Blue was a local and had his regulatory six lines. These he had laid out along a 50m stretch of the bank amongst the weed beds and along the root entanglements hanging over the 2m of water. The rigs were simple, but effective.

This type of fishing is simple in theory, but can be challenging in practice. In its simplistic form it is a hook and sinker on a hand reel. Line size is dependent upon two things: the type of fish being targeted; and, the location in which you are fishing – tree roots and snags are unforgiving on light line, especially if a cod grabs the bait. Blue dropped out two handlines of 40lb monofilament each with a No.2 bean sinker and a 5/0 “Bait Holder” hook. These lines were both baited with blue-claw yabby which are found in the local creeks and dams. He then set three rods.

Two were 2m, medium taper and action rods. Both were fitted with Shimano Stradic 3000 threadline reels loaded with 30lb braid line and 40lb mono leader. Their specific purpose was to cast and hold a float with a 1.8m dropper consisting of a No.1 bean sinker, a swivel then 30cms of 40lb mono trace attached to a 4/0 wide gap hook. These rigs were baited with fresh shrimp, hooked live through the tail section. They were cast out beyond the near bank weed beds and left to drift.

Of the other two rigs, one was an ABU baitcasting outfit. Except for the float, it too was rigged the same as the spin outfits, however, the bait this time was tiger worms. And according to Blue, “at times, these are the must have bait!” They certainly can wriggle! The baitcaster was cast, then set in free-spool with a slightly tightened spool knob to avoid over-run should a fish show interest in the bait. A bite indicator bell was then attached to the tip and the rod left in a spiraled rod holder. The sixth and final rig was a 3m fast taper “bobbing rod”.

Anyone who has ever fished the western rivers will have a story about bobbing for yellowbellly (and cod). I have enough to fill a book!

Simply – a bobbing rod is a length of pole long enough to reach out over the water to the edge of a drop off, or snag. Years ago a rod would be a length of wattle, belah, mulga, or even bamboo. Blue’s rod was a fiberglass blank. The rig was standard: a length of 40lb mono about 1.5 times the length of the rod, dropped down to a disc float, to a small running sinker set above the hook. The sinker being just heavy enough to hold the bait down. The angler then sits/squats on the bank, or on a log, or tree root over and near the water. The depth of the bait is set by adjusting the float and the bait lowered into the water. The fisher then lifts and drops the rod tip with a rhythmic action lifting the float and bait at the same time. Each angler I know has their own rhythm. It is quite funny to be fishing at night with mates and all you can hear in the darkness is “plop”, “plop”, “plop” or, “plop”- “plop”- “plop-plop!”, “plop!-plop! Then – “Gotcha!”

The aim of bobbing is to attract the fish to the area in which you are fishing. The float is trying to imitate a stranded bait; Bogong Moth, a large beetle, a frog, even little birds, or lizards, anything that would be eaten by predators such as cod, or yellowbelly (I have a special preference for a disc float as it makes a slapping sound on the surface which the fish seem to like). Once in the area, the scent of the actual bait becomes the target and will entice a strike. And hopefully a hook-up. It is a very effective method of fishing.

Blue and I caught two nice yellowbelly that morning and missed a couple more. Over the next two days of fishing with two mates, Kev and Spud (Bill) along the entire length of the main hole we caught another six yellowbelly. The biggest at 41cms: a nice fish.

The Darling River at Bourke catches all of the run-off from the western Great Divide from north at Toowoomba right down to Central NSW. It is a massive system. The Queensland component of these catchments form the major rivers, the Barwon, Balonne, Condamine and Maranoa which form the Darling proper. These rivers are noted for their cod and yellowbelly numbers.

The major towns situated along these rivers are:

Barwon: Mungindi (QLD), Walgett and Brewarrina (NSW)

Balonne: St.George, Dirranbandi  (QLD)

Condamine: Dalby, Chinchilla, Surat (QLD)

Maranoa: Mitchell (QLD)

All of these towns cater for the travelling fisher and all conduct at least one fishing challenge/competition a year. These events are a good opportunity to get to know the locals, the fishing locations and to offer support to the communities. Places like Charleville and Bourke have competitions based round the eradication of carp from the rivers of the areas. Called “Carp Busters” they bring attention to the carp numbers problem especially in the lower Warrego and along the Darling.

Whilst in Bourke I fished a 10km section of the river north of the town with the hope of catching a Murray Cod or a nice yellowbelly. The river had a bit of a run in it from recent rain and the carp were reveling in it. They were tail slapping and even jumping as they moved upstream against the flow. I caught 15 to 3kg in a two hour session. I gave it away after I got down to my last sandwich. In case you are interested; carp love rye bread and chicken!

One pales to insignificance when you stand on the bank above the Aboriginal fish traps (now a sacred site of cultural significance) at Brewarrina. Located on the Barwon River, the traps are reported to be between 5,000 – 40,000years old, with continued maintenance and usage by Aboriginal people during that time. The traps are clearly visible and well worth a look. The Brewarrina Aboriginal Cultural Museum is a great place to visit. They also conduct a commentary tour of the site. As a fisherman I could see the logic in its design and location. From a historical aspect I consider it a, “Must See”.

St.George caters well for the travelling fisho. A series of maps and brochures can be obtained from the information centre that cover the Balonne, Maranoa, Moonie and Condamine Rivers. These maps show access points to fishing locations as well as good camping sites. The staff at the information centre are “fishing savvy” and like nothing more than to have a yarn about the one that got away!

My trip ended with a visit to the Weir River. It had changed, but then so had I. I had a fish but didn’t catch any. So I packed up, drove to the Lalaguli gate, had a look to where we used to catch frogs then headed on to the little town of Toobeah. And there I had two beers – and a rum! The west looked good.