Crabbing Facts and Fiction – By Dan Kaggelis
The only thing I like better than mud crabbing is having a chat with fellow crabbers about mud crabbing. These conversations are similar to most fishing stories, which include exaggerated tales of crabs as big as a carton of beer, or pots so full of crabs they can’t be lifted into the boat. What I most enjoy about these chats are the many ideas around what works and what doesn’t when it comes to catching a mud crab. Whilst some of the information shared are valuable facts, the majority is far from accurate and can only be described as worthless fiction. Whilst my own lengthy crabbing experience has taught me a thing or two about crabbing, I’ve been fortunate enough to have pulled a pot and chewed the ear off some of the best commercial mud crabbers getting around. Some of these include third generation operators who know so much about crabbing they are almost part crab themselves. I’ve also spent some time with crab aqua culturalists whose job is to farm crabs from egg to crab for a living. It’s pretty incredible how far the science has come, and it won’t be long until production levels equal that of prawn and barra farms. So, I’m going to share a little bit of what I have learnt to dispel some of the more common ‘fictional’ ideas when it comes to sinking a few pots and catching a crab.
Knowing the difference between fact and fiction can be the difference between big crabs or big empty pots.
One of the most common fictional beliefs is that you can only catch crabs in the months which have an ‘R’ in it. I’m not sure where this comes from, but I have my suspicions it was spread by those who don’t want people crabbing at the best times of the year. Whilst you can catch crabs all year round, the autumn and early winter months are regarded as some of the best crabbing times across the whole year. Much of this belief comes from the moulting cycle of both female (jenny) crabs and male (buck) crabs. There is a strong belief that Jenny’s will moult first in mid to late summer. When they moult they release a pheromone which attracts bucks out from their holes to mate as bucks can only mate with Jenny’s when their shells are soft. It’s around this time that you will catch a mix of Jenny’s and bucks in your pots. Unfortunately, most buck crabs whilst healthy and rusty will be just undersized. Sometime after this event the Jenny’s will begin to hide away, and these undersized bucks will moult several times growing to and above legal size. This is prime time to be catching big numbers and high-quality male mud crabs.
The dark and rusty underbelly with a distinct star shows this crab is getting near close to busting full which will impact both taste and texture.
Another fictional idea I hear a lot is it’s a good idea to leave a Jenny in the crab pot as it will attract bucks. Unfortunately, if the Jenny is not moulting and not releasing any pheromone then it won’t be attracting any male crabs. Instead, all it will do is eat all your bait, taking away the only thing that will attract bucks to your pot. Another common misconception is that leaving your pots to soak overnight is not a good idea because it gives crabs time to get out of your pot or your bait to get eaten away by vermin. The reality is mud crabs are nocturnal and are far more likely to walk around and feed at night than during the day. This doesn’t mean you won’t catch muddies during day, but it does mean you will probably catch a lot more in the same spot if your pots are left overnight. It also allows your pots to experience different phases of the tide. Everything that lives in the sea is influenced by tide in regard to feeding and travelling and crabs are no different. Having your pots in the water over a series of tides only increases your chances of catching more crabs.
Cleaned crabs ready for the boiler. Cleaning your crabs before cooking makes a far better meal than a crab cooked whole. Why would you want to cook your food with all its guts and waste still in it?
The next idea is a fact that I initially believed was fiction and revolves around catching floater crabs. It is widely accepted by commercial crabbers and crab farmers that empty or watery crabs or ‘floaters’ are more commonly caught around the full moon than any other time of the lunar cycle. At first hearing this I immediately thought it was a load of crap because I love to crab over the bigger tides, especially around the full moon. But since hearing this many years ago I have started to take more notice of my catches and whilst I do catch more crabs over the bigger tides, I definitely catch way more floaters as well. I know several commercial crabbers who swear by this and avoid crabbing around this time and I guess when you are getting paid by weight it’s an important factor to consider.
The next fictional belief is big baits will catch more crabs. The whole concept of loading up your pots with massive amounts of bait to catch more crabs is rubbish. In fact, it can actually go against you as large amounts of bait can break up and fall out of pots which means crabs don’t have to get into your pot to get a feed. Lots of bait can also attract vermin such as estuary cod who can tear up your bait and spread it everywhere. You are better off using a small amount of bait such as a couple of mullet heads which are big enough to attract crabs but not too big to fall apart or be ripped apart by vermin. You also want to avoid jamming in fish skins or fish guts into bait boxes as these are easily dragged and pulled outside of pots.
Just because crabs are pale like this one does not mean it is a low-quality crab. This one was far from a floater and was this colour because it was living on the coastal foreshore.
Another misconception is that all crab pots catch crabs. This is far from the truth and cheap pots will catch you less crabs. Crab pots with four mouths will catch more crabs than those with two mouths. It’s a simple case of having more places for crabs to get into your pot and if you only have two mouths it means you are only letting two in at a time. This may seem farcical but if you have ever seen footage of how slow crabs are and how long it takes for them to walk in a pot you will know what I am on about.
Another fictional fact is that crabs love stinky rotten bait and its best left in the bait box even when you are rebaiting for another set. The reality is that crabs are no different to everything else in the sea and prefer to eat fresh bait not rotten bait. Leaving rotten baits in pots will do nothing but discourage crabs away from your crab pots. It is always best to rebait pots with fresh bait after every pull and most importantly get rid of the old bait in your bait boxes. This includes bait which have barely been touched. This is why some baits are far better to use than others. For example, chicken frames will rot and go off very quickly, so they are not the best to use when leaving the pots in for a long set. Fish frames are a little better but still rot pretty quickly. Tough skinned fish like mullet or fish heads are really good for staying fresh but no matter what you use make sure you change it up every time.
Defined clear white tips and a dark green shell shows this nipper is going to be one tasty north Queensland lollypop.
The second last fictional fact is that the rustier the crab the better. Yes dark coloured crabs, especially with a clear star shape on its underbelly are full of meat but it doesn’t mean they are the best crab to eat. Crabs which are almost black or have a deep red rust colour can in fact be too full or even worse old and dying. An over full crab means that they can be dry or tough, similar to an old piece of mutton compared to lamb. They can also be very gamey and off tasting. These crabs are usually right on the verge of moulting or alternatively on their way out completely. These types of crabs are always rusty coloured but also have pitted shells as they can no longer moult and are wearing away. These crabs will be the first to die if not cooked straight away. Either way they taste very ordinary and are best left in the water. Another misconception is that pale looking crabs can be empty or of less quality. This is far from the truth and sometimes they are this colour because they have been living in clean coastal water as opposed to up a muddy creek. There are many ways to decide if a crab is quality or not and for me the presence of strongly defined white tips on a dark green coloured nipper and a brown tanned underbody are far better indicators than a rust colouration.
Yes its rusty but it’s also rusted out and almost at its end.
The last one is going to cause some contention, but I am going to stick to my guns here and say that a clean, cooked crab is a million times better eating than a whole cooked crab. There are plenty of crabbers out there who believe that cooking a crab whole gets the best flavoured meat as you are cooking it in its natural juices. But I ask you this, if you are cooking a whole fish would you leave all its guts and entrails in it or would you gut and gill it first? The answer is pretty simple, and the reality is most crabbers have never tried a clean, cooked crab. The flesh is cleaner, whiter and sweeter as the saltwater gets right into the meat unlike the alternative where the crab is being cooked in everything including what’s in its waste system. Keep in mind this will include its last meal which was whatever you had in the bait box!
At the end of the day, I’m sure there are a few of you reading this feature shaking your head and disagreeing with what I am calling fact or fiction. I guess it is each to their own, but if you aren’t open to adjusting your ideas or conceptions then there is a chance you may stop learning which may also lead to stopping catching. So next time you are setting a few pots have a think about the facts and fiction above and try and prove me wrong. It might cost you a crab but it also might catch you two.
Cleaning before cooking means the flesh is whiter, cleaner and sweeter than a whole cooked crab.
